It takes some moxie to open up a sushi spot just a block away from , the perennial 'hood favorite continuously praised as the "best of Boston" for sushi. Still, local sushi chain Super Fusion has taken over the lease from the forgettable on a short yet sharp stretch of Centre Street, which houses such local luminaries as , , and the newly-opened .
Owner Sam Huang, who honed his sushi skills at the esteemed , likely knows exactly what he's doing. This is his fourth location in the city (the others include Cambridge, and ), all of which are considered some of the most popular sushi spots for value-priced, exceptionally fresh sushi.
The nigiri and maki offerings are pretty standard here, with eel, scallop, mackerel, squid and spicy tuna being the popular picks. The menu earnestly (and endearingly) boasts the slogan "First time ever in Boston, super big sushi, huge size never seen!", and it's true. The portions are indeed huge, but remarkably fresh, clean and dramatically constructed. Most orders, consisting of two pieces, are priced between $3 and $8, the exception being the toro (blue fin tuna belly), which, both fatty and addictive, is worth a few extra bucks.
There's a host of gimicky and decidedly absurd maki offerings here, which tend to make appearances on respectable sushi spot menus everywhere (though shunned by purists): the Philadelphia maki with smoked salmon with cream cheese and cucumber is one of them, so is the Dragon maki with fried sweet potato. I don't know who orders these items, but I imagine someone is happy to see them on the menu.
The uncooked selections are Super Fusion's shining stars, but there's much to offer the non-sushi enthusiasts here as well: crispy fried wontons, shrimp and vegetable tempura, beef teriyaki, steamed shumai (dumplings) and deep-fried coconut chicken and salmon. Most all appetizers and entrees are under $8. There's a host of salads too ($5-$6)—the expected seaweed salad is a sure bet, served with cucumbers and a delicate vinegar sauce, and the avocado seafood salad is also a winner, dressed with an addictive, if ubiquitous, spicy mayo.
For now, beverage offerings include only bottled soda, water and house green tea. Party platters (40-102 pieces), featuring a mix of the most popular menu items, are available for take-out.
It's doubtful Super Fusion is really going to be competition for JP Seafood. The place is too tiny for group dining, yet too sterile (all that tiresome shiny blond wood!) for much desirable eat-in dining. But the menu is tight and safe, and the food is respectfully fresh and deftly prepared by a brigade of skilled chefs. The prices are easy on the wallet and the service is genuinely affable. This Jamaica Plain location will likely thrive on take-out and delivery, while JP Seafood will maintain its reputation as the neighborhood's destination sushi restaurant.
And that's just fine. JP is, and always has been, all about options.
Super Fusion is open Monday-Saturday, 11:30AM-10PM; Sunday, Noon-10PM. Delivery after 5PM.