.

Burger Bar Culture Arrives in Jamaica Plain

Krista Kranyak’s riff on fast food fare hits the mark with newly-opened Grass Fed.

It’s a measure of Krista Kranyak’s love for Jamaica Plain that she opened here last month. The casual and sleek burger bar was a concept previously lacking in JP’s growing culinary landscape. When the became available last fall, after the owners became locked out of the country in a , Kranyak jumped on the opportunity to take over the property, just three doors down from her flagship and much-lauded restaurant on Centre Street.

“I was focused for some time on a concept where quality food could be served in a fast food setting,” says Kranyak, who owns and operates three successful Ten Tables franchises with locations in JP, Cambridge and Provincetown. “I wanted my menu to include all the classic burgers that most of us grew up eating but to also offer some specialty burgers.”

Oddly shaped, slightly overcooked and lightly charred, Grass Fed’s burgers are indeed reminiscent of childhood backyard barbecue fare. The ones we had were cooked a little over medium. No pink at all. Even so, they’re pretty phenomenal.

But these aren’t your pop’s burgers; served on a modest white bread bun, Grass Fed’s five-ounce burgers are offered with a host of appealing enhancements. Artisinal bacon? Fried oysters? Cilantro-lime aioli? A fried egg? Stinky Stilton? Yes, please.

A ground chicken burger—a welcome alternative to the oft-seen on menus yet ho-hum turkey burger—comes topped with mozzarella and pesto. The chickpea burger and mushroom burger are necessary vegetarian-friendly options. Tabletop condiments include housemade ketchup, mustard, barbecue sauce and A10 sauce (Grass Fed’s version of A1 steak sauce.)

You'll find plenty of attractive options for non-burger eaters: BLTs, shrimp po’boys, fish and chips, pastrami on rye and hot dogs score spots on the menu. Fries come sea-salted, spicy, with truffle and Parmesan or made from beets. Potato chips are housemade, golden onion rings are mammoth, and poutine—fries drenched in cheese with meaty gravy or mushrooms—makes a welcome menu appearance. (Note to restaurateurs: more poutine on menus, please!)

To drink, find milkshakes, traditional or boozed up (seemingly a fad of late—here with vodka, rum, stout beer, tequila, Kahlua or Bailey’s), natural sodas, an impressive list of local bottled brews and an expansive wine list.

Grass Fed’s food purveyors include Brookline's and Dighton-based Buckle Farm (owners Jim and Wendy Buckle are JP residents.) Grass-fed beef is sourced from family-run East Orange Belties in East Orange, Vermont. Chef Sean Callahan will be overseeing both the JP Ten Tables kitchen as well as Grass Fed line.

As expected of any newly-opened spot, service stumbles at times and has yet to find its stride. Foodie hype and general curiosity finds the 31-seat place packed of late, and it’s entirely possible, having placed your order at the counter, to find yourself with a burger in hand, and no place to sit. But it’s likely Kranyak isn’t sweating this small stuff.

“We plan to continue along with the same tradition that Ten Tables JP has, not only in this community but in all of Boston.” she says. “We’ll earn customer trust by continuing to serve affordable, consistent, quality, tasty food with good service.”

And with Kranyak at the helm, there’s little doubt Grass Fed will soon be another feather in her well-crafted cap. 

 

, 605 Centre Street, JP

(617) 553-2278

Prices: Burgers: $7.50-$12, Sandwiches: $9-$10, Fries & Poutine: $4-$6

Accepts credit cards, not currently offering take-out

Open Daily,  11AM-11PM

Bob from JP April 09, 2012 at 10:41 PM
The burgers are overcooked. The fact that they are still pretty good is a testament to the quality of the ingredients, but getting them done right would be fantastic
patty April 10, 2012 at 11:50 AM
if I pay $ 9 or over for a burger I expect to have it cooked the way I like it. That is not possible here and after the novelty wears off patrons will likely take their business to a place where the burgers are bigger and cooked the way the patron wants it. I wish them luck but they need to make their burgers bigger and cooked the way the consumer asks!
Ron Richo April 10, 2012 at 12:32 PM
We ate at Grass Fed shortly after it opened (I usually give restaurants a chance to work out the kinks before I try them but I was really eager to try it) and the atmosphere was busy, hectic and lively. Obviously they were still getting settled in so it was less than perfect but only slightly so. The burger I had (The Blue Devil) was cooked past medium (I prefer rare) but still juicy and very, very good. My wife had the chick pea burger which she liked as well and we shared the Poutine and liked that too. If our experience was as good as it was I can't imagine how good this place will be after they're open a few months. Can't wait to get back there. Thanks, Grass fed. Ron Richo
RICHARD WATSON April 11, 2012 at 05:23 AM
After waiting what seemed liked years for this joint to open, I was unable to get away to try it's food until Monday night. The service wasn't the best, though I had the feeling that the staff were trying and therefore gave them the benefit of the doubt. My burger was perfect, as I like them cooked just a little beyond medium. I had it with carmalized onions on a bed of lettuce. Delicious. I went back yesterday afternoon. In a more relaxed atmosphere the service was much better. Yes the burgers could be bigger, and the price of a double cheaper; but I think I've discovered my new favorite JP restaurant.
ann April 11, 2012 at 03:45 PM
I got a cheeseburger and thought it was delicious (and I was raised on grass/cornfed beef in southeastern Kansas many years ago) -- my father was cooking outdoor grilled burgers back almost before there were outdoor grills (late 1940's). I know my beef!! And the size was fine - don't know what Mark expects... I would not call 5 oz "lady-size" American restaurants have oversized everything and we're seeing the results in overweight!! I say BRAVO to Krista.

Boards

More »
Got a question? Something on your mind? Talk to your community, directly.
Note Article
Just a short thought to get the word out quickly about anything in your neighborhood.
Share something with your neighbors.What's on your mind?What's on your mind?Make an announcement, speak your mind, or sell somethingPost something
See more »