Super Fusion Express, we hardly knew ye. The local sushi franchise, with successful locations in Cambridge, Watertown and Brookline, opened a spot on Centre Street last spring and subsequently closed its doors a year later. Many speculated that its mere one-block distance from JP Seafood—a restaurant regarded as one of the city’s top spots for sushi—was likely Super Fusion’s undoing. But this past spring the owners regrouped, revamped their concept and reopened last month as Wrapmi, a tiny take-out shop showcasing a brief menu of wrap-like Asian rolls.
“It’s Asian fast food,” explains Sam Ho, part-owner of the Super Fusion chain of restaurants and Wrapmi’s shop manager. “But it’s nutritious and organic too, not just convenient. We tell people, our rolls are like healthy Asian burritos, all the stuff that you’d expect from sushi rolls, only in a to-go form.”
Asian burritos aren't a new concept—famed NYC-based celebuchef David Chang introduced them into the foodie culture mainstream years ago—but they're unique to the JP culinary landscape, where traditional Mexican wraps have heretofore ruled the burrito scene. Wrapmi’s footlong offerings are stuffed with (mostly) Asian ingredients and sticky white rice, and wrapped in toasted nori (dried seaweed)—think of a maki roll that hasn’t been sliced. A thin crepe separates the filling from the nori, ensuring the outer seaweed layer stays crisp for hand-held eating.
For the most part, Wrapmi’s fillings are what you’d expect to find on a typical Asian take-out menu—there’s diced crab and salmon and gingered beef alongside smoked duck and Kimchi. Each roll is made to order, portions are considerable and ingredients are suitably fresh. You might wish the plain mayonnaise was the spicy variety commonly served with sushi rolls, but the menu’s most glaring indiscretion is canned corn, a bonkers ingredient that makes an inexplicable appearance on Wrapmi’s otherwise thoughtful, fresh and Asian-centric bill of fare.
Eats are cheap here—all menu items are under 10 bucks. A second Wrapmi will open this week in Chinatown (66 Kneeland Street), with a third location slated to open this summer in the South End.
“We wanted JP to be the first location for Wrapmi,” says owner Ho. “The combination of professional people, the artists and the musicians here…we knew they’d be open to our new concept. And business has been great so far.”
Here’s hoping for a successful restaurant rebirth. And welcome to the neighborhood, Wrapmi.
779 Centre Street, Jamaica Plain
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m., daily